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Walton Waters from Delaware Phoenix is a lovely spirit, one that will be enjoyed most by those who like their absinthe complex and intensely herbal.
It begins a very attractive shade of peridot, though there is variation from bottle to bottle. The first I bought was nearly emerald, whereas the second was a more usual shade of peridot. Nevertheless, I have seldom seen a more pleasing color of absinthe, and the louche (to a very attractive jade green) is also as good as it gets.
The aroma is very clean and herbal, though it is less intense than I would have expected. The flavor too is very herbal, with much more wormwood than anise, at least to my palate. There is very little spice in this absinthe's flavor profile, and some might find it slightly grassy, though I do not. The finish is long and rich, with wormwood being the most prominent note.
Overall, I like this one very much. Another fine American absinthe joins the ranks!
Update: I just tried this absinthe again after not tasting it for some months. This time, I found no trace of grassiness in the flavor...indeed, it was exactly what an absinthe should be...and therefore I raised the rating accordingly. Walton Waters may well be the best brand on the U.S. market at present.
This is a very nice, well crafted absinthe more than vaguely in the style of a Pontarlier.
The color neat is a medium forest green, and after a very full, cascading, and opaque louche, much of this green is retained, and the drink is a minty/pistachio tone.
The aroma neat is almost akin to Nyquilâ„¢ if there were a handcrafted, all natural version. After louching the aroma blossoms to reveal a fragrant, and rounded bouquet...nothing really stands out, there's just a lovely balance of herbs. It's not as room-filling as Meadow of Love's aroma, but it's quite nice.
The mouth feel is very thick, rich, and creamy, and the flavor is as rounded as the aroma, again balanced, but with just a touch of grassiness at this stage. I imagine that with some resting, this will disappear, as the color drops off a bit, and the drink becomes even smoother.
The finish is lovely, and basically continues the balance theme. It is of good duration, although it could linger a bit longer on the palate, and a touch more wormwood might help achieve this.
Overall, this is a lovely, softer, and fuller companion to Meadow of Love, and shows more of Cheryl's true distilling artistry!
Color: The vibrant, rich peridot color of Walton Waters is beautiful and the definition of what I think an absinthe verte should look like. When louched, the brilliance softens, but it is still definitely in the peridot family, as opposed to the variations on yellow-green that I have often seen in other absinthes. The color in both cases is as near to perfect as I could possibly imagine. As to whether or not it will stay that way as it ages (my bottle is dated 09-4, presumably April 2009), I won't know for a long while, but I'm not sure I would even say that matters unless some sort of review standards for aged absinthe are set up.
Louche: Soft cascades of oil to start, which then slowly escalades into billowy clouds and then a roiling storm. Mesmerizing. Beautiful.
Aroma: Pleasantly floral, with a bouquet of extremely well-balanced herbs filling the room. The green anise is soft and alluring, but all of the botanicals are orchestrated skillfully into one masterpiece of scent.
Flavor: Walton Waters offers an outstanding, refined flavor. Green anise and fennel are certainly there, but there's something else that is both a little peppery and sweet, without being minty -- this is possibly the lemon thyme that others have cited. I found the ideal balance for my tastes at 4:1, where the spiciness is present but subdued, and the flavor fills out completely. At 4.5:1, the taste is equally delicious, having the presence of a light herbal earthiness, with only the ghost of spiciness. Sweetening is not necessary at all with this absinthe, but as has always been the case, I've found that a half teaspoon of agave nectar adds even more of a creamy fullness.
Finish: This one offers a rich and creamy mouthfeel (even before the agave sweetener is added), with a delicious aftertaste of coriander and fennel, accompanied by only the slightest numbing to the tongue. I would prefer that the finish last just a touch longer, as it is so good.
Overall: Walton Waters is fantastic, and the best absinthe I've had yet. I drank my sample glasses during the last weekend of May, approximately a month or so after it was made, and the idea that it is still considered young and will age to become even better is almost unfathomable to me. If the aging process causes the finish to last longer, this absinthe might very well be perfect.
Presentation (no points): Clear glass bell shaped bottle with a lovely label that speaks to this absinthe's origins. The clear glass bottle suggests that long term storage of this absinthe should be done well away from where light can get to it, especially sunlight. The cork popped out easily despite the wax seal, could probably use more wax if a tight seal was desired.
Color (5 points): Beautiful bright and natural green, clear and free of any sediment. Very appetizing!
Louche (5 points): My favorite kind of louche, thick, full, and rich.
Aroma (4 points): When smelled neat, soft herbal aromas come through, a touch of citrus, anise is present but not sharp. After louche the aromas are similar, not necessarily room-filling as with some absinthe, but its delicate nature makes up for it.
Flavor (5 points): Wonderfully balanced flavors here, nothing overpowers, there is a sweetness from the anise balanced with a crisp citrus, underpinned by satisfying bitter wormwood.
Finish (4 points): Soft finish, slight numbing in the middle of the tongue, very relaxed feel to this absinthe.
Overall (5 points): Walton Waters is a fantastic contribution to the U.S. domestic absinthe market, many thanks to its creator. A few years ago, the idea that one would be able to buy absinthe of this quality within the U.S. was a complete pipe dream. Walton Waters has brought that dream to life, and beautifully transforms the peaceful reflections of the Delaware River into a lovely glass of absinthe.
-Color-
Before Water: Vibrant, clear- nearly forest- green. I believe this is due to the young age of this absinthe, and in 3 weeks I have already seen it move just so slightly towards peridot. I'll need to see it around the 6 month mark to really be able to score it properly (I know of some excellent absinthes that were vibrant green right after coloration, but are now closer to pale amber simply because they have been aged).
After Water: Very nice medium lime; natural and attractive. Thicker than some, but has good depth.
-Louche-
Thick, impressive trails that seem to bounce into fluffy knots and then form little jelly layers. Cloud grows at about the perfect rate, is well defined and reaches into the clear top section when disturbed by water drops.
-Aroma-
Before Water: Clean alcohol heat, prominent citrus, and a deep herbal tone that's due especially to the wormwood and fennel.
After Water: Sweet floral and citrus up front. Backing herbaceous notes that are cohesive, but I think I can pick out the grand and petite wormwoods and maybe a little powdery hyssop.
-Flavor-
Sweet anise and fennel are first up, then act as a foundation to let smooth citrus, minty bitter wormwood, finely balanced herb melange and spicy notes come through. I agree with the assessment that one should roll it around a bit more than usual before swallowing to get the most out of the tasty wormwood and other herbs. It wouldn't be surprising if the flavor opens up more as the absinthe matures.
Very nice mouthfeel- smooth and full, with a mild, yet spicy tingle.
-Finish-
The finish is has good staying power, with the grand wormwood coming out even more for a savory bitter send off.
-Overall-
This is a great absinthe that I do not hesitate to recommend. Slightly bolder (I get more grand wormwood, and less petite, comparatively) and creamier than its sibling, Meadow of Love. The soft citrus notes and almost juicy mouthfeel distinguish it, yet it pays tribute to the classic Pontarlier style. Another entry for my top 10.
Notes: Louched 3:1 and 3.5:1, no sugar. Batch 09-3 Bottle 29