L'Enjôleuse is one of the most unusual and remarkable absinthes I have yet encountered. I suspect it is one that will have its detractors, but for all that it is atypical, I give it my wholehearted recommendation.

To begin, I say "don't judge the book by its cover." L'Enjôleuse is not the prettiest absinthe out of the bottle. It pours an unremarkable greenish gold, with brownish-amber tints. It looks completely natural, but that is really the best that can be said about its appearance. However, like Rosanna Arquette, there is more to the Seductress than conventional good looks.

The louche is extraordinary. As the water drips in, the expected "oil trails" refract the light in amber-gold flashes. The plain brown of the absinthe changes to a smoky quartz, and then a yellowish jade. The final color is not exceptionally beautiful, but the louche is pleasing and appropriately translucent.

The aroma before water is quite interesting, and one definitely detects the cognac notes that the distiller mentions. As the water is added, the aroma becomes more herbal, but there are intense peppery notes as well. This comes through even more in the flavor, which is complex, unusual, and arresting. With each sip, atop the base flavor of absinthe, I sense notes of cognac, orange, and pepper. There are also candy-like flavors and other spices too subtle to be named. Like all of the Paul Devoille absinthes, L'Enjôleuse is intensely herbal. However, this offering is far more layered and complex than La Coquette or the old standby Verte de Fougerolles.

The finish is long and rich, as the complex flavors slowly fade. Overall, as noted above, this absinthe is far from typical. There is so much going on that this will never be a "daily drinker." That said, L'Enjôleuse is aptly named. I would have been sorry to have missed this one.