Duplais Distillation Manual – Absinthe
Considered by many to be the official canon of 19th century French distilling practice, this English translation of Duplais’ 1855 treatise, Traité de la Fabrication des Liqueurs et de la Distillation des Alcools, Chapter 9, The Manufacture of Swiss Absinthe, details the most common recipes and processes involved in making high quality absinthe.
CHAPTER IX.
THE MANUFACTURE OF SWISS ABSINTHE.
Swiss
absinthe at the present time constitutes the object of considerable
trade and a special manufacture. Pontarlier, Montpellier, and Lyons,
are cities in which it is manufactured in very great quantities. We
shall describe the article as produced in each locality, assuming that
the quantity of Swiss absinthe to be made is one hectolitre.
Larger absinthe, dried and ground, 2 kilogrs., 500 grms.
Green anise 5 “
Fennel 5 “
Alcohol at 85° 95 litres.
Digest these ingredients for at least twelve hours in a water bath, add
45 litres of water when ready distil, close the apparatus, and distil
off 95 litres of perfumed spirit. Continue the operation until all the
phlegm is drawn off, and set it aside for another operation.
The green color is given by the following process:
Small absinthe, dried and picked 1 kilogr.
Hyssop (tops and flowers), 1 “
Lemon balm, dried and picked 500 grms
Perfumed spirits, from the preceding operation, 40 litres
Divide or cut up the small absinthe, reduce the hyssop and balm to a
powder in a mortar, put the whole into a water-bath with the perfumed
spirits, lute immediately, then heat gently, so as to produce a very
moderate and gradual heat, and, so soon as the hand cannot be placed on
the cap, withdraw the fire quickly beneath the apparatus, in order to
prevent the liquid from being distilled. Allow it to cool entirely
before withdrawing the still from the water-bath, then pass the colored
liquor through a hair cloth to drain the plants; add this product to
the 55 litres of perfumed spirits that are reserved, and reduce to 74
degrees by adding litres of water, which will bring the quantity up to
100 litres.
Large absinthe dried 2.5 kilogrammes.
Green anise 6 “
Florentine fennel 4 “
Coriander 1 “
Angelica seed 500 grammes.
Alcohol at 85° 95 litres.
Distil as in the preceding case. The color is also in the same ‘way with the following ingredients
Dried hyssop, (herb and flowers), 750 grammes.
Dried balm of Moldavia 750 “
Small absinthe 1 kilogr:
Large absinthe,. dried 3 kilogrammes.
Green anise 8 “
Fennel 4 “
Angelica seed 500 grammes.
Alcohol at 85° 95 litres.
Coloring.
Dried and selected lemon balm 1 kilogramme.
Small absinthe dried. 1 “
Hyssop tops and flowers dried 500 grammes.
Dried Veronica 500 “
Green anise 45 kilogrammes.
Fennel 25 “
Larger absinthe 16 “
Alcohol at 85° 570 litres.
Water 300 litres
Digest for at least twelve hours with the alcohol in a proper
apparatus, add the water at the time of distilling, draw off 570 litres
of perfumed spirits. When this quantity has been obtained continue the
distillation until all the phlegm has been distilled off and set aside
for another operation.
Coloring.
Lemon balm 4 1/2 kilogrammes.
Hyssop 3 1/2 “
Lesser absinthe 4 “
Veronica 4 “
Treat as for that first described and reduce the mixed spirits to 74°
by the addition of enough water to bring the quantity up to 600 litres.
Absinthe of Besançon. (For 600 Litres )
Great absinthe 24 kilogrammes.
Green anise 30 “
Fennel . 40 “
Coriander 4 “
Alcohol at 85° 570 litres.
Water 300 “
To be treated as above.
Coloring.
Balm 3 kilogrammes.
Less absinthe 6 “
Hyssop 5 1/2 “
Treat as the last.
Absinthe of Nimes. (For 600 Litres.)
Great absinthe 22 1/2 kilogrammes.
Green anise 22 1/2 “
Fennel . .. 15 “
Coriander . 2 1/2 “
Roots of the black alder 1 1/2 “
Angelica root 1 1/2 “
Alcohol at 85° 570 litres.
Water . 300 “
Treat as above.
Coloring.
Less absinthe 5 kilogrammes.
Hyssop 4 1/2 “
Balm 1 1/2 “
Veronica 2 1/2 “
Mint 2 1/2 “
Treat as before
It
is always optional to diminish or increase the quantities of the
ingredients in the foregoing recipes according to the taste of the
manufacturer, or the price of the article he wishes to produce; but
this fact must be borne in mind, that it is only age that will give to
absinthe that softness so much prized by consumers.
Remarks.—The greatest pains should be taken in the selection of the
materials, especially the plants intended for the coloring; these
should be very green and dry, and free from black and mouldy leaves.
The seeds should be powdered in a mortar, and the great absinthe picked
over and ground.
The distillation of absinthe should be
effected in a Turk’s-head still, in a water-bath, or, what is better,
by steam, in order that the essential oils may rise with more facility,
especially towards the close of the operation; because the phlegm is
employed in another operation, in which it is most useful, by adding to
the perfume through the large proportions of essential oils it contains.
The coloring is of the highest importance. The plants are finely
divided, or reduced to powder, and covered with perfumed spirits; then
heated gently, in order to extract the chlorophylle or coloring
principle. After cooling, the colored spirit is drawn off clear, and
the plants are drained. They may still, after this operation, serve
for coloring a smaller quantity of absinthe. They are then subjected to
distillation, to collect and save the small quantity of alcohol still
adhering to them.
In the large factories, the extract of
absinthe is colored in tinned copper vessels, containing about twenty
hectoliters—they are called colorers. These vessels, hermetically
closed, are heated to 60 degrees by means of steam.
The
coloring may be made in the cold way, but the operation requires many
days, and a large quantity of plants, which considerably increase the
acridity of absinthe.
When the coloring and perfumed spirit,
held in reserve, have been mixed, the alcoholic strength is tested and
reduced to 74°, although absinthe is never sold above 72°; but, by rest
and time, there is always some loss which must be provided against.
The green color of absinthe becomes yellowish by age, and then has a
dead-leaf tinge. The green tint may be preserved by adding, after the
mixture, fifteen grammes of alum, dissolved in a glass of water; but
consumers generally prefer the yellow tint. By age, absinthe improves
in quality, by losing its sharp and empyreumatic taste, which is
communicated by the distillation and coloring.
It is to be
remarked that it is not the great variety of substances introduced into
the manufacture that constitutes the great merit of absinthe, but
rather the rational combination of a small number having peculiar
virtues: thus, the anise serves to produce the whiteness; the fennel
corrects the piquant and sugary taste of the anise, at the same time
adding something to the flavor; ,the hyssop fulfils the same end, while
it yields a beautiful green color, which the balm increases still
more. Finally, the lesser absinthe, by its slightly yellowish tinge,
modifies the excessive brilliancy of the green color, while its slight
bitterness and aroma, added to those of the great absinthe, impart to
this liquor the characteristics peculiar to a well-made product.
Absinthe is considered as being of good quality when, on being diluted
with water, it becomes white, and exhibits the colors of the opal,
which is due to the essential oils from the seeds, and the resinous and
coloring matters of the plants, which, under these circumstances, are
set at liberty, and form, with water, the milky compound so highly
prized. In this state, it should be pleasant, agreeable, odorous, and
sweetish. Sharpness and tastelessness are always signs of a recent
manufacture.
Absinthes of inferior quality are often met with
in the market. Some are manufactured without distillation, essences
being used to replace the seeds and plants; some are distilled with
trois-six from beets, &c., which leaves much to be desired in
flavor; some are prepared with old or damaged materials, while,
finally, there are others which, after the distillation have had added
to them aromatic resins, such as benzoin, guaiacum, &c., in order
to increase the opalescence.
White Absinthe
Greater absinthe, selected 2 kilogrs., 750 grms.
Less absinthe 1 kilogr, 125 “
Hyssop flowers 1 ” 100
Veronica 550 grammes
Genepi 550 “
Roman chamomile 225 “
Green anise 5 kilogrs., 250 grms.
Fennel 5 ” 250 “
Coriander 1 kilogr.
Angelica seeds 550 grms.
Alcohol at 85° 96 litres.
Conduct the maceration and distilling in the same way as for green absinthe; then rectify the product, and reduce to 74°.
The abuse of absinthe, even diluted with water, is – most deleterious
to the animal economy. Taken pure, it occasions serious disorders of
the stomach and brain. It is not to the alcohol alone that these
injurious effects are to be attributed, but more especially to the
large quantity of essential oils of anise and fennel which it contains.
Causes of the Pernicious Effects of Absinthe
This
so-called Swiss absinthe has attracted public attention for some time,
and much credit is due to the writers of many scientific and medical
essays, for indicating with so much persevering energy the abuses of
this product, a horrible curse which is killing the youth of our
colleges, decimating the army, and will cause the fatal debasement of
the rising generation. In order to increase the sale of t.his truly
horrible beverage, the idea has been invented of mixing it with syrups
of gum, so called, and which most generally do not contain a particle
of gum, and which, on account of the vile method of the manufacture,
only bring in their train an increase of the evil.
Of course
these evils are not to be attributed to firstclass houses, who only
sell for consumption perfectly distilled absinthes that are free from
all adulterations. We have no intention, by what has just been said, to
advise the use of this liquor, however well it may be made, but to set
forth the fact that, in many localities, sufficient care is not taken
in the selection of the plants, and in conducting the distillation.
This results ‘from the fact *at most persons who undertake this work
are ignorant of the first principles of distillation. So much is this
the case, that, if allowed to express an opinion. on so serious a
question, we should advise the authorities-
1. To require that
all liquor distillers who manufacture absinthe, or any other spirituous
liquors, should have some knowledge of chemistry and botany, should be
of good character, and be possessed of organs of taste and smell
accurate enough to be of use in estimating the quality of the materials
passing through their hands.
2. That a certificate or diploma
as a distiller should be conferred on him only after his having proved,
by a satisfactory official examination, th& he is possessed of a
competent knowledge of the theoretical principles of the trade he
wishes to pursue.
3. Finally, that he should serve for at least
one year as an apprentice, in order that he may, on entering the
business, add also practical knowledge to the theoretical which he
should possess. By following this plan, we would have good and true
distillers. While at the present time a large proportion of the young
men, who set up in this business, have very little knowledge, they very
often leave trades having little or no connection with distilling, and
at the end of a few months’ apprenticeship, sometimes under a man more
ignorant than themselves, they present themselves as master workmen at
the distillery or the brewery. Why, then, should it be cause for
astonishment if badly manufactured products of distillation enter into
our daily consumption? We cannot close this article without giving some
advice on the distillation of absinthe.
The plants should be
picked over, as only the tops are distilled, and the flow phlegm should
never be pushed to the end of the distillation. It may be objected that
the liquor will be less penetrating, and will have less bouquet; we
answer, so much the better for the consumer. They may rejoin that the
price will be much higher: we reply, what is the difference? it will
sell all the better for that.
We cannot omit to recommend the
use of calamus aromaticus, and angelica root in the proportion of 125
grammes to the hundred litres of the product, with balm, hyssop, and
the petite wormwood for the coloring, which should always be made hot.
But why are absinthes so bad in Paris? It is because the greater
proportion of absinthes sold are not distilled, but made from essences,
which, as is well known are highly charged with empyreumatic essential
oils. Now, if the proportion of these essences is too great, as is
almost always the case, they are not completely dissolved, and the
absinthe so manufactured, after being swallowed, leaves an acrid taste,
and a lasting and painful sense of heat and discomfort in the mouth,
throat, stomach, and even in the urinary organs in persons who use it
habitually.
In conclusion, absinthe, as a medicine, like most
other plants, has some useful properties; but as a favorite and daily
drink it has its dangers and becomes very often fatal. But it is
certain that if this liquor was always of good quality and properly
prepared, it would not play such sad havoc, and would spare many useful
men to the country.
