Absinthe du Centenaire - Reviewed by Experts and Consumers at The Wormwood Society
A new recipe from the distillery Devoille that combines rare varieties of wormwood grown in the grounds of the distillery. The ingredients include locally grown Artemisia afra, Artemisia absinthium, Artemisia pontica (Roman wormwood), hyssop, angelica, and lemon balm along with fennel, coriander seeds, and others
Louche: Attractive, thick and opalescent. Yellows, greens and whites all play in harmony.
Aroma: Minty and herbaceous. Lots of wormwood with hints of angelica and citrus. Quite refreshing.
Flavor: Very herbaceous and complex. Interesting stuff. Lots of wormwood. The new WW varieties add some subtle woodsy layers that are quite pleasant. Very well balanced.
Finish: Lots of lovely herbs. Complex, with a nice dryness and coriander spice.
Overall: This is a SERIOUS absinthe. Really good stuff. I can see why it was a favorite at the 2015 absinthiades. Really, you should try this.
Louche: kind of a thunderstom: green dominates but orange is there with some blue. Oily trails. At 1:4 it starts weakening but remains green.
Aroma: Before adding water one can perceive anise, some lovely alcohol (I’d say wine alcohol), grapes, tobacco leaves, freshly cut grass in summer, hay drying under the sun. With water the aroma intensifies a lot, it becomes more herbaceous. There are so many different plants that it triggers memories of me being a 6 years old kid in the countryside amidst tobacco and corn fields, my hands dirty with grass.
Taste: the holy trinity is clearly dominated by wormwood, without being unbalanced. Taste is consistent with aroma, not too sweet, beautifully bitter. It is very round, thick to the tongue.
Finish: Devoille's wine alcohol seems to hold all the aromas forever.
Overall: this is the third Devoille absinthe I try. I had the very affordable Libertine Amer and Libertine 55 before, and I liked them a lot for their well defined personality and their amazing price/quality ratio. Centenaire is a different beast, with much higher ambitions, and I am glad to acknowledge that Devoille can also make top of the shelf stuff. The many different herbs really triggered something in my memory. Can it get better than this?